VK 

943 
1 9(5 


UC-NRLF 

Ill 


w.archive.ora/details/alaskacoastpilotOOuscorich 


I 


DEPARTMEJ^T   OF  COMMERCE 


L^ 


p 


aA-' 


U.  S.  COAST  AND  GEODETIC  SURVEYj 
O.  H.  TITTMANN,  Superintendent 


ALASKA 


COAST  PILOT  NOTES 


KUSKOKWIM  BAY  AND  RIVER 


MARCH  15,  1915 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFIOE 

10U 


hoc     Cii.' 


VK/' 
use 

)V5 


Department  of  Commerce, 
United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey, 

Washington,  D.  0.,  March  15 y  1915. 

This  publication  furnishes  the  available  information  relating  to 
the  navigation  of  Kuskokwim  Bay  and  River  from  Cape  Newenham 
northward,  and  is  a  part  of  a  coast-pilot  publication,  now  in  prepa- 
ration, which  will  cover  the  coast  of  Alaska  westward  and  northward 
of  Yakutat  Bay. 

It  is  based  upon  the  surveys  of  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geo- 
detic Survey,  including  information  furnished  by  the  compiler, 
R.  R.  Lukens,  who  has  served  for  three  seasons  on  survey  parties 
in  this  region. 

This  publication  has  been  prepared  under  the  direction  of  Herbert 
C.  Graves,  chief  of  the  Coast  Pilot  Section,  in  the  office  of  J.  J.  Gilbert, 
inspector  of  hydrography  and  topography. 

Navigators  are  requested  to  notify  the  Superintendent  of  the 
United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  of  any  errors  or  omissions 
they  may  find  in  this  publication  or  of  additional  matter  which  they 
think  should  be  inserted  for  the  information  of  mariners. 

O.  H.  TiTTMANN, 

Swperintendent. 

85996—15  (3) 


ivi548449 


NOTE. 

The  courses  and  bearings  given  in  degrees  are  true  reading  clock- 
wise from  0°  at  north  to  360°,  and  are  followed  by  the  equivalent 
magnetic  value  in  points  in  parentheses.  General  directions,  such 
as  northeastward,  west-southwestward,  etc.,  are  magnetic. 

Distances  are  in  nautical  miles,  and  may  be  converted  approxi- 
mately to  statute  miles  by  adding  15  per  cent  to  the  distances  given. 

Currents  are  expressed  in  knots,  which  are  nautical  miles  per  hour. 

Except  where  otherwise  stated,  all  depths  are  at  mean  low  water. 

(4) 


KUSKOKWIM  BAY  AND  RIYEB, 

from  Cape  Newenham  to  Bethel,  are  shown  on  charts  9103  and  9104, 
which  are  in  preparation  and  are  expected  to  be  available  for  issue 
prior  to  April  15,  1915. 

Cafe  NewenJiam  is  the  landfall  for  this  region,  and  can  be  ap- 
proached close  to  with  deep  water.  It  is  the  end  of  a  peninsula 
formed  by  a  series  of  rough  saw-tooth  mountains.  These  moimtains 
terminate  in  a  level  plateau  which  forms  theammediate  cape.  In 
southerly  weather  a  heavy  sea  and  tide  rips  occur  off  Cape  Newenham. 

Jagged  Mountain  is  a  weU-defined  peak,  the  highest  of  the  Cape 
Newenham  group.     Viewed  from  northward  its  slopes  appear  jagged. 

Security  GovCj  9  miles  northeastward  of  Cape  Newenham,  is  a  good 
anchorage  except  with  northwest  winds;  the  usual  summer  gales 
are  southeasterly.  The  bottom  is  even  and  shoals  gradually.  The 
best  anchorage  is  about  f  mile  northeastward  of  Castle  Rock,  on  the 
range  of  Castle  Rock  and  the  first  rocky  promontory  southwestward, 
in  3^  fathoms,  mud  bottom.  Fresh  water  can  be  procured  from  a 
stream  which  enters  the  cove. 

There  is  also  good  anchorage  in  the  middle  of  the  small  bight  on 
the  southwest  side  of  Castle  Rock,  in  3^  fathoms,  good  holding  ground. 
This  anchorage  is  less  affected  by  the  groimd  swell  making  along  the 
coast  from  Cape  Newenham  than  the  anchorage  in  Security  Cove. 

Oastle  Rock,  the  southwest  point  of  Security  Cove,  is  a  small, 
prominent  headland,  299  feet  high,  joined  to  the  land  by  a  low  neck. 

At  the  northeast  point  of  Security  Cove  there  is  a  conspicuous 
pinnacle  rock,  169  feet  high  and  covered  with  light  tundra. 

Ghagvan  Mountain  is  a  smoothly  shaped  mountain  terminating 
in  two  rounded  knobs  about  1,540  feet  high,  which  lies  between 
Security  Cove  and  Chagvan  Bay. 

Chagvan  Bay  has  a  narrow  shoal  entrance.  Inside  it  is  very  shoal 
and  cut  up  by  bars  that  are  bare  at  low  water. 

Red  Mountain  is  a  conspicuous  reddish-colored  mountain  just 
south  of  Goodnews  Bay.  From  northward  it  appears  as  a  long 
ridge  with  the  highest  part  at  its  northern  end. 

Goodnews  Bay  is  shoal  except  for  the  deep  channel  which  leads 
through  the  entrance  and  for  a  distance  of  about  1  mile  inside.  This 
channel  affords  good  anchorage,  the  best  place  for  vessels  being  in  the 
middle  of  the  entrance ;  small  craft  can  select  a  berth  from  the  chart 
that  affords  the  best  shelter.  The  sea  from  outside  is  broken  by  the 
shoals  off  the  entrance  and  does  not  reach  the  anchorage.     With 

(5) 


soutlierly  or  easterly  winds  tide  rips,  dangerous  for  boats,  occur  in 
the  channel.  The  spits  at  the  entrance  are  of  shingle  and  steep-to. 
Fresh  water  may  be  had  from  a  small  stream  near  Baluka  Hill. 

Shoals  extend  2^  miles  off  the  entrance  of  Goodnews  Bay.  In 
1914  the  channel  with  best  water  led  across  the  shoals  from  south- 
ward, and  had  two  bars,  with  a  least  depth  of  about  10  feet,  2^  and  SJ 
miles  southward  of  the  entrance.  The  following  directions  led 
through  the  channel:  Bring  the  inner  shore  of  the  north  spit  just 
open  of  the  west  shore  of  the  south  spit,  and  stand  in  on  this  range, 
course  17°  true  (N  J  W  mag.),  until  across  the  bars.  Then  follow 
the  south  spit  at  a  distance  of  J  mile,  and  cross  the  entrance  to  a 
position  300  yards  eastward  of  the  north  spit.  A  56°  true  (NE  J  N 
mag.)  course  with  the  south  side  of  the  north  spit  astern  will  then 
lead  in  the  channel  through  the  bay  for  a  distance  of  over  1  mile. 

Mumtrak  is  a  small  native  village  at  the  head  of  Goodnews  Bay, 
and  can  be  reached  by  small  craft  only,  owing  to  the  extensive  mud 
flats.  Two  small  creeks  enter  the  bay,  one  on  each  side  of  the  village. 
There  is  a  Government  school  and  a  native  trader  at  Mumtrak. 

Baluka  Hill  is  a  prominent  conical  hill  886  feet  high,  with  a  steep, 
rocky  face  that  rises  abruptly  from  the  north  side  of  the  bay.  Al- 
though lower  than  the  mountains  behind  it,  Baluka  Hill  usually 
stands  out  prominently  from  all  parts  of  Kuskokwim  Bay. 

Carter  Spit  is  a  low  sand  spit  about  4§  miles  long  and  from  50  to 
300  yards  wide.  It  incloses  Carter  Bay  which  is  a  wide  area  of  shoals 
and  mud  flats.  Around  the  end  of  the  sand  spit  there  is  a  narrow 
channel  scoured  out,  affording  an  anchorage  for  launches  and  small 
craft.  There  is  no  protection  from  northward.  A  small  stream 
known  as  Indian  Creek  flows  into  the  east  side  of  Carter  Bay  near  two 
abandoned  cabins,  formerly  called  Carter.  Fresh  water  can  be  ob- 
tained by  boats  from  Indian  Creek  at  high  water. 

Explorer  Mountain  is  the  highest  peak  northward  of  Goodnews 
Bay.  From  southward  it  appears  as  a  long  ridge  and  is  recognized 
by  three  deep  gulleys  on  its  side.  From  westward  it  appears  as  a 
pyramid  peak,  the  highest  of  the  group. 

Tooth  Mountain  is  a  flat  topped  mountain  in  the  front  range,  and 
has  a  sharp,  rock}^  pinnacle  on  the  northern  edge  of  its  summit.  It  is 
easily  recognized  from  the  vicinity  of  Carter  Spit. 

Figure  IV  Mountain  is  a  sharp  peak  in  the  front  range  eastward  of 
Jacksmith  Bay.  The  deep  ravines  on  the  side  of  this  mountain  form 
a  perfect  IV  which  is  conspicuous  from  westward  when  the  ravines 
are  filled  with  snow.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  summer  the  snow  dis- 
appears from  the  ravines. 

Cone  Mountain  is  a  large  conical  mountain  in  the  first  range. 

Yulcon  Hill  is  low,  but  is  the  north  end  of  the  front  range  parallel- 
ing the  coast,  and   is  visible  from    the  'entrance  of   Eek   Channel. 


From  westward  it  is  not  distinguishable,  as  it  has  the  receding  range 
as  a  background. 

TJiumh  Mountain  is  a  fairly  sharp  summit  in  the  range  which 
recedes  from  Jacksmith  Bay.  From  off  Quinhagak  it  resembles  a 
huge  thumb  placed  on  a  high  flat  mountain  plateau.  As  Eek  Island 
is  approached  the  mountain  appears  as  a  ridge  and  is  not  so  distinc- 
tive. 

Jacksmith  Bay  is  the  large  indentation  14  miles  northward  of 
Carter.     It  is  entirely  bare  at  low  tide. 

QuinhagaJc  P.  0.  is  almost  inaccessible  by  water  because  of  the 
great  mud  flats  bordering  its  shores.  Launches  can  enter  the  creek 
here  only  at  the  highest  tides,  and  even  smaU  craft  can  hardly  get 
within  sight  of  the  village  and  remain  afloat  at  low  water.  Supphes 
are  landed  with  great  difficulty,  owing  to  the  extensive  flats  and  their 
exposure.  There  is  a  Moravian  mission,  store,  and  Government 
school,  and  a  hmited  amount  of  supplies  may  be  procured.  The 
church  steeple  is  sometimes  visible  from  Eek  Channel. 

Warehouse  Bluff  is  a  long  dark-colored  bluff  about  12  miles  north- 
westward of  Quinhagak.  This  is  an  important  landmark  as  it  is  the 
fii'st  land  on  the  east  bank  to  be  sighted  when  ascending  Eek  Channel. 
No  objects  on  the  west  shore  are  visible  until  approaching  the  head 
of  Eek  Channel. 

Warehouse  CreeJc  is  a  deep  creek  about  2  miles  above  Warehouse 
Bluff.  It  is  approached  through  a  long  tortuous  channel  through 
the  mud  flats  that  can  be  followed  by  small  craft  when  the  flats  are 
bare.  SmaU  craft  may  find  shelter  here.  The  greatest  range  of 
tide  in  the  bay  occurs  in  the  vicinity  of  Warehouse  Creek. 

Kuskokwalc  Creek  flows  into  the  east  side  of  the  river  about  4  miles 
southward  of  Beacon  Point.  It  is  approached  through  a  short 
channel  across  the  flats  and  affords  a  good  shelter  for  launches  and 
other  small  craft.  There  is  a  depth  of  4  fathoms  just  inside  the  mouth 
of  this  creek. 

Beacon  Point  is  generally  considered  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Two 
range  beacons  are  built  on  this  point.  The  rear  one  is  a  30-foot 
square  tower  and  the  front  one  is  a  low  tripod.  They  mark  the  cross- 
over from  Eek  Channel. 

Popokamute  is  a  large  native  summer  village  on  the  west  bank  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  just  across  from  Beacon  Point. 

Eek  Island  is  a  grass-covered  mud  flat  cut  up  by  deep  sloughs,  and 
is  covered  by  the  higher  tides.  Eek  Island  affords  a  feeding  ground 
for  many  thousands  of  ducks  and  geese. 

West  Point  is  the  local  name  given  the  fishing  camp  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river  just  above  Eek  Island.  The  native  pilot  ''Capt. 
John,"  fives  near  here,  and  ''Moses  "  is  often  found  at  the  fishing  camp. 


8 

There  are  a  number  of  small  native  villages  on  the  river  between 
West  Point  and  Bethel. 

Bethel  is  considered  the  head  of  ocean  navigation,  f  here  are  a 
Moravian  mission,  sawmill,  and  two  or  three  stores  located  here.  A 
river  steamer  is  operated  from  Bethel  to  the  headwaters  of  the  river. 
At  Bethel  the  Kuskokwim  Commercial  Co.  has  a  large  warehouse 
with  rock-filled  cribs  to  which  large  vessels  can  moor  and  discharge. 
The  range  of  tide  here  is  only  about  3  feet,  but  the  stage  of  the  river 
has  considerable  influence  on  depths. 

Bethel  is  the  supply  point  for  the  lower  Kuskokwim  Valley.  About 
13  feet  is  the  deepest  draft  that  should  attempt  to  reach  Bethel, 
although  a  vessel  drawing  14  feet  has  ascended  the  river  to  that  point. 

Mail  facilities. — The  mail  for  the  lower  Kuskokwim  comes  monthly 
by  the  way  of  the  Yukon  and  Holy  Cross  Mission.  It  is  transported 
over  the  portage  to  the  Kuskokwim  and  carried  down  that  river  in 
small  boats  as  far  as  Quinhagak.  Power  schooners  from  Seattle  also 
carry  mail  when  practicable. 

Pilots. — There  are  two  native  pilots  who  know  the  river  above 
Eek  Island.  They  are  known  locally  as  ''Moses"  and  ''  Capt.  John.'' 
''Capt.  John"  lives  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  just  above  Eek 
Island,  and  ''Moses"  is  usually  found  at  his  house  on  the  east  bank 
near  the  wrecked  schooner  Volante,  abreast  the  upper  end  of  Eek 
Island.  On  the  appearance  of  a  vessel,  one  of  these  natives  usually 
puts  off  to  engage  himself  as  pilot.     There  is  no  established  fee. 

Currents. — The  currents  of  Kuskokwim  Bay  and  River  are  strong. 
A  strong  tidal  current  sweeps  past  Cape  Newenham,  setting  approxi- 
mately north  and  south  true,  and  another  foUows  the  shore  along 
the  north  side  of  the  cape.  In  general  the  currents  set  in  directions 
parallel  to  the  axis  of  the  channels  between  the  shoals.  In  the  deep 
channels  off  Jacksmith  Bay  the  flood  current  has  a  velocity  usually 
of  about  2  to  2 J  knots  at  strength,  and  the  ebb  from  2 J  to  3  knots. 
In  the  vicinity  of  Eek  Island,  the  strongest  ebb  current  observed 
was  3^  knots.  Here  the  current  turns  from  one  to  one  and  one-half 
hours  after  high  and  low  waters.  The  flood  current  is  felt  only  about 
as  far  as  Bethel. 

Ice. — The  river  is  usually  open  for  navigation  about  June  1, 
although  ice  conditions  are  uncertain  and  vary  much  from  year  to 
year.  In  the  fall  ice  makes  on  the  upper  river  in  October,  and  heavy 
ice  forms  off  Goodnews  Bay  in  November.  Goodnews  Bay  freezes 
over  entirely  in  the  winter. 

Weather. — All  reports  agree  that  the  best  weather  usually  occurs 
in  March  and  April  of  the  early  spring.  During  the  summer  south- 
east to  southwest  gales  are  frequent,  lasting  from  two  to  five  days. 
These  storms  gradually  blow  themselves  out,  and  are  generally 
followed  by  a  few  days  of  good  weather.     In  the  early  fall  northerly 


9 

winds  are  frequent,  and  are  usually  accompanied  by  a  clear  sky. 
After  the  middle  of  September  strong  gales  become  frequent  and 
prolonged. 

Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  from  small  streams  in  Security  Cove , 
in  Goodnews  Bay  near  Baluka  Hill,  and  from  Indian  Creek  in  Carter 
Bay. 

Tides. — In  Kuskokwim  Bay  and  River  there  are  usually  two  unequal 
high  waters  and,  to  a  much  less  extent,  two  unequal  low  waters  during 
the  lunar  day,  the  inequality  varying  principally  with  the  declination 
of  the  moon.  About  two  days  after  the  moon  is  on  the  equator  the 
tides  are  generally  nearly  equal  and  have  the  least  diurnal  range. 
About  two  days  after  the  moon  reaches  its  greatest  declination  (far- 
thest N.  or  S.)  the  tides  are  very  unequal,  and  usually  have  the 
greatest  range  of  the  month;  these  are  called  ''great  tropic  tides." 

On  account  of  the  difficulty  of  determining  accurately  the  tidal 
elements  in  this  region,  a  special  table  of  predicted  times  and  heights 
of  high  and  low  waters  for  1915  at  Apokak  is  in  preparation,  and  wiU 
be  available  for  issue  prior  to  April  15,  1915.  The  following  table 
is  intended  for  use  with  that  table.  The  time  of  high  and  low  water 
for  any  day  will  be  found  by  subtracting  the  time  difference  given 
in  the  following  table  from  the  predicted  times  for  that  day  at  Apokak. 
The  best  determination  of  the  height  of  high  and  low  water  will  be 
found  by  multiplying  the  height  of  the  particular  tide  for  that  day 
at  Apokak  by  the  ratio  of  ranges  from  the  following  table: 


Range  of  tide. 

Tidal  differenop,s  and  ratios  referred  to 
Apokak. 

station. 

Mean. 

Great 
tropic. 

Time  of— 

Ratio  of 

H.W. 

L.  W 

ranges. 

Goodnews  Bay  (South  spit) . . 
Carter 

Feet. 

6.2 

8.0 

^9.7 

10.0 

9.4 

Feet. 

9.8 

11.6 

113.2 

13.5 

12.9 

H.m. 
-3    30 
-2    40 
-1    35 
-0    55 

0    00 

H.m. 
-4    35 
-3    40 

0    00 

Feet. 
0.66 
0.85 

Quinhagak 

U.03 

Warehouse  Creek 

1.06 

Apokak 

1.00 

1  At  Quinhagak,  the  water  never  fell  to  the  true  datum  of  lower  low,  as  there  is 
apparently  some  obstruction  between  the  position  of  the  tide  staff  and  the  channel  in 
the  river.    Theoretical  ranges  for  this  station  are  given. 


DIRECTIONS,  KUSKOKWIM  BAY  AND  BIYEB. 

About  13  feet  is  the  deepest  draft  that  should  attempt  to  reach 
Bethel,  although  a  vessel  drawing  14  feet  has  ascended  the  river  to 
that  point. 

The  navigation  of  Kuskokwim  River  and  its  approaches  is  difficult. 
In  the  bay  the  shoals  are  generally  hard  and  steep  to.  In  a  southerly 
storm  a  heavy  sea  makes  up  the  bay  nearly  to  Eek  Island,  and  vessels 
caught  on  a  shoal  are  in  danger  of  being  pounded  to  pieces. 

The  lead  is  the  navigator's  best  aid,  and  it  should  be  kept  going 
constantly  on  both  sides  of  the  vessel.  No  definite  rules  can  be 
given  for  following  the  channels  by  the  surface  indications  of  the 
water.  At  certain  times  the  channels  will  be  smooth  with  i-ips  on 
the  shoals;  but  again  for  no  apparent  reason  the  indications  may  be 
reversed,  with  rips  in  the  channel  and  a  slick  on  the  shoals.  The  edge 
of  a  channel  is  often  marked  by  a  long  line  of  foam,  although  cases 
have  been  known  where  the  line  of  foam  extended  across  the  channel. 
It  is  always  weU  to  approach  such  a  line  with  caution. 

Mariners  are  strongly  cautioned  against  attempting  to  follow  the 
channels  in  the  bay  at  high  water.  Owing  to  the  inequality  of  the 
tides,  a  vessel  grounding  at  high  water  may  not  float  again  for  several 
days.  By  waiting  for  low  water  the  mud  flats  become  natural  aids 
instead  of  dangers. 

Passing  about  2  miles  westward  of  Cape  Newenham  make  good  a 
28°  true  (N  f  E  mag.)  course  for  about  6  miles  until  the  cape  bears 
190°  true  (S  i  E'mag.).  Then  make  good  a  10°  true  (N  J  Wmag.) 
course  with  Cape  Newenham  directly  astern  for  about  18  miles  until 
Baluka  Hill  bears  65°  true  (NE  mag.)  and  Red  Mountain  121°  true 
(E  by  S  mag.).  From  this  position  make  good  a  341°  true  (NW  |  N 
mag.)  course  for  about  13  miles  to  a  position  4  miles  256°  true  (SW  by 
Tfmag.)  of  the  elbow  of  Carter  Spit.  About  June  15,  1915,  a  beacon 
for  survey  purposes  will  be  erected  on  the  elbow  of  Carter  Spit. 

In  thick  or  hazy  weather  a  route  nearer  the  coast  may  be  taken  as 
follows:  Pass  ^  mile  off  Cape  Newenham  and  Seal  Rock,  and  then 
make  good  a  70°  true  (NE  ^  E  mag.)  course  for  about  6|  miles  until 
Castle  Rock,  the  southwest  headland  of  Security  Cove,  bears  177° 
true  (SSE  mag.).  Strong  tidal  currents  occur  along  the  north  shore 
of  Cape  Newenham.  From  this  position  make  good  a  357°  true 
(NNW  mag.)  course  with  Castle  Rock  astern  for  14  miles  until  the 
summit  of  Red  Mountain  is  abeam.  Then  make  good  a  341°  true 
(NW  i  N  mag.)  course  for  19^  miles  to  a  position  4  miles  256°  true 
{SW  by  W  mag.)  of  the  elbow  of  Carter  Spit. 

(10) 


11 

From  a  position  4  miles  256°  true  {SW  by  W  mag.)  of  the  elbow 
of  Carter  Spit,  make  good  a  302°  true  (W  by  N  mag.)  course  for  5^ 
miles  with  Baluka  Hill  in  range  with  P3n'amid  Mountain  astern. 
Then  head  up  the  channel  on  a  6°  true  (N  by  W  }  W  mag.)  course. 

Vessels  should  arrange  to  make  this  point  at  the  last  of  the  ebb 
tide,  and  go  up  the  channel  with  the  flood  tide.  After  heading  on 
the  6°  true  (N  by  W  J  W  mag.)  course,  the  long  shoal  on  the  east 
side  of  the  channel  should  be  made  out,  either  heaping  or  breaking. 
It  is  only  with  a  very  smooth  sea  that  this  shoal  is  not  in  evidence  at 
low  water.  After  continuing  on  this  course  for  about  10  miles,  the 
long  shoal  on  the  west  side  of  the  channel  should  be  made  out,  either 
heaping  or  breaking.  This  shoal  should  be  followed  at  a  distance  of 
about  1  mile  until  its  northern  extremity  is  reached.  Here  it  be- 
comes a  flat,  bare  at  about  half  tide.  It  is  of  a  yellowish  color  and 
has  deep  water  close  to.  This  flat  is  the  leading  mark  for  entering 
Eek  Channel,  and  therefore  it  should  always  be  made  at  low  water. 

From  here  for  about  15  miles  the  channel  must  be  followed  by  the 
chart  and  the  lead.  The  leads  should  be  kept  going  on  both  sides  of 
the  vessel,  as  the  slope  at  the  sides  of  the  channel  is  sufficient  .to  make 
the  difference  in  depth,  obtained  with  the  two  leads,  a  warning  of 
the  approach  to  the  flats.  Near  the  edges  of  the  channel  the  water 
usually  shoals  abruptly.  In  clear  weather  the  white  church  steeple 
and  buildings  at  Quinhagak  may  sometimes  be  seen  from  this  channel. 

Having  arrived  at  a  point  in  the  channel  from  which  Quinhagak 
bears  about  99°  true  (E  by  iVmag.),  a  black  mud  flat  which  is  well 
bare  at  half  tide  should  be  made  out  ahead  if  the  tide  is  not  too  high, 
and  at  the  same  time  Warehouse  Bluff  should  be  picked  up  bearing 
about  37°  true  {Nhy  Ei  Emug.), 

Pass  about  h  mile  westward  of  this  mud  flat,  and  then  follow  the 
flats  as  indicated  on  the  chart.  This  part  of  the  channel  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  foUow  at  low  water,  but  it  is  almost  impossible  to  navigate 
it  at  high  water  when  the  flats  are  covered. 

From  the  head  of  Eek  Channel  there  are  two  channels  which  are 
used.  The  channel  eastward  of  Eek  Island  is  generally  used,  and 
there  is  a  range  on  Beacon  Point  for  entering  it.  The  channel  west- 
ward of  Eek  Island  is  considered  somewhat  easier  than  that  eastward, 
provided  the  long  flat  on  the  west  side  at  the  head  of  Eek  Channel 
shows  above  water.  In  case  of  a  vessel  grounding  on  a  falling  tide, 
masters  are  warned  against  using  their  engines  too  long,  as  the  silty 
bottom  is  apt  to  be  sluiced  out  from  underneath  the  stern  of  the 
vessel  with  serious  results  when  the  tide  falls  completely. 

To  pass  on  the  east  side  ofEeJc  Island,  favor  the  east  side  of  the 
channel  until  on  the  Beacon  Point  range.  This  range  has  a  30-foot 
square  tower  for  the  rear  mark,  and  a  smaller  tripod  beacon  for  the 
front  mark.     Follow  this  range  which  leads  in  a  least  depth  of  about 


12 

12  feet  at  low  water,  and  enter  the  deep  channel  which  follows  the 
east  shore  of  the  river  above  Beacon  Point.  Follow  the  shore  at  a 
distance  of  about  }  mile,  until  off  the  slough  which  lies  about  1  mile 
north  of  Apokak  village.  From  this  point  head  about  304°  true 
(WNW  f  W  mag.)  and  enter  the  channel  which  extends  along  the 
north  side  of  Eek  Island.  This  crossover  has  a  least  depth  of  about 
7  feet,  and  is  a  difficult  one  to  make.  A  power  boat  should  be  sent 
ahead  to  sound,  as  the  channel  is  narrow  and  is  apt  to  shift  from 
year  to  year.  If  possible,  a  native  pilot  should  be  employed  before 
attempting  the  crossover  from  Apokak. 

The  channel  along  the  north  side  of  Eek  Island  is  easily  followed 
until  its  west  end  is  approached,  as  the  deepest  water  is  close  to  the 
shore.  Passing  about  150  yards  northward  of  the  west  point  of  the 
island,  the  channel  trends  about  295°  true  (W  J  N  mag.)  to  the 
west  side  of  the  river  at  West  Point.  Owing  to  its  narrowness  and 
danger  of  change,  the  channel  near  the  west  point  of  Eek  Island 
should  be  navigated  very  carefully  and  with  a  smaU  boat  ahead 
sounding. 

To  pass  on  the  west  side  of  EeTc  Island, — This  channel  should  not  be 
attempted  unless  the  mud  flat  on  its  west  side  at  the  head  of  Eek 
Channel  is  bare.  Favor  the  west  side  of  Eek  Channel,  round  the 
head  of  the  mud  flat  at  a  distance  of  about  J  mile,  and  steer  for  the 
beacon  at  Popokamute  until  the  deep  channel  near  the  western  shore 
is  entered.     This  leads  over  a  bar  with  about  8  feet  at  low  water. 

Owing  to  the  incompleteness  of  the  survey  at  this  point,  the  uncer- 
tainty of  the  stage  of  tide,  and  the  possibility  of  bars  shifting,  vessels 
are  advised  to  send  a  power  boat  ahead  to  sound  when  making  this 
crossover.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to  avoid  getting  too  far  north- 
ward, as  the  shoal  extending  down  from  the  south  point  of  Eek 
Island  is  steep  to.  In  places  it  drops  from  1  fathom  to  10  fathoms 
in  a  ship's  length. 

From  Popokamute  to  West  Point  a  deep  channel  follows  the  west 
bank  of  the  river  as  shown  on  the  chart. 

Above  West  Point  the  river  should  not  be  attempted  without  local 
knowledge.  The  channel  crosses  from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the 
other  many  times,  and  there  are  no  prominent  features  which  can  be 
used  as  leading  marks. 

In  August,  1914,  the  surveying  steamer  Yukon  made  a  trip  from 
Eek  Island  to  Bethel.  A  least  depth  of  13  feet  was  had.  This  was 
found  at  about  high  water  on  the  crossover  about  2  miles  south  of 
Bethel. 

o 


iiiiii 


1 


TL  62b^>i 


■i 
/ 


